Since we’ve had an alpaca/ llama theme going on for a couple weeks now, I thought I should go ahead and share this free crochet pillow pattern with y’all – my Llama Llove Pillow. 🙂
Find the downloadable/printable version of this pattern with chart [here]!
This adorable free crochet pillow pattern will be sure to add lots of charm to your living room, a kids room or just about anywhere!
It features the cutest llama – created with the fair isle crochet technique – a charming bobble border and loads of fuzzy + cozy texture! A photo tutorial is included in this post for fair isle crochet. A video and photo tutorial is included for the bobble border.
Let’s get crocheting!
free crochet pillow pattern / Llama Llove Pillow
measurements:
- finished pillow height measures approximately 18” (including bobbles)
- finished pillow width measures approximately 14” (including bobbles)
difficulty level: intermediate
us crochet terms
what you will need:
- Color A 2 skeins I Love This Yarn! (or approximately 550 yds) in Antique White or another #4 medium weight yarn.
- Color B 1 skein Yarn Bee Snuggle Up (or approximately 85 yds) in Cream or another #5 bulky weight fuzzy yarn.
- Color C 1 skein I Love This Yarn! (or approximately 125 yds) in Tropical Pink or another #4 medium weight yarn.
- Color D 1 skein I Love This Yarn! (or approximately 10 yds) in Yellow or another #4 medium weight yarn.
- Color E 1 skein I Love This Yarn! (or approximately 10 yds) in Turquoise or another #4 medium weight yarn.
- 1 – 8.75yd package artiste metallic embroidery floss (or approximately 5 yds) in Stardust or another standard size embroidery floss.
- Size US G/4.25mm crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge. To save time make sure to check gauge. GAUGE: 16SC X 18 ROWS= 4”x4”
- Tapestry needle
- 12×16” pillow form
- Ruler or tape measure
pattern notes:
- Each square on the graph counts as one SC
- Be sure to check symbols and colors when reading graph – since you are working in rows as opposed to rounds, you will read the graph from right to left on the RIGHT SIDE (RS) of your work and from left to right on the WRONG SIDE (WS) of your work. (This is indicated on graph by letters and arrows) The squares with directional symbols will also be counted in your stitches.
- When crocheting with Color B be sure to keep your tension loose so that you can see your stitches.
- When crocheting the front side of the pillow, pay close attention to specific instructions for reading the graph.
abbreviations:
- CH – chain
- SLST – slip stitch
- STS – stitches
- SC – single crochet
- DC – double crochet
- REP – repeat
- RS – right side
- WS – wrong side
fair isle crochet tutorial:
In this tutorial you will learn the Fair Isle Crochet technique. This includes reading a graph, changing colors within a row to create a design and working with “floats” – strands of yarn from your color changes that will show on the back side of your work. Unlike Tapestry Crochet, (where you carry your contrasting color inside of the stitches until you are ready to use it) in Fair Isle, you will bring your color or “float” behind your work. This technique can only be used if the WS of your work does not show.
reading a graph
When preparing to crochet the pattern on your graph, be sure to check all symbols and colors in the legend so that you are familiar with the color changes, direction you will be reading the graph, right and wrong side of your work, and any other specific instructions before you start. The practice llama graph below is labeled with arrows and a brief description of what each one is pointing out. This graph is identical to the llama graph in the pattern (with the exception of the colors and extra non-llama graphic rows). You will read both graphs the same way. This graph is used in the rest of the tutorial as well.
llama graph
Arrow #1
This special symbol indicates that you will catch the Color A float with a Color B single crochet. The surrounding color changes will be worked as usual.
Arrow #2
These arrows and letters indicate whether you will be working on the right or wrong side of your project and which direction you will be reading your graph on the corresponding row.
Arrow #3
This vertical set of numbers indicates what row you are on.
Arrow #4
This horizontal set of numbers indicates what stitch you are on within the row.
Legend
Be sure to check each color and symbol before reading graph.
Introducing your first contrast color (or Color B)
Crochet with main color until your graph calls for your contrast color. One stitch before your contrast color starts, begin working a single crochet (insert hook, pull up a loop…) before yarning over and completing your single crochet, (you will have two loops still on hook – above left photo) yarn over with contrast color instead of main color, and complete your single crochet by pulling the contrast color through the two loops on your hook (above middle photo). Keep the color you are not currently working with behind the working color when making your single crochets (see above right photo where the working color is the contrast color and the main color is behind).
Changing back to your main color
Work as many stitches in your contrast color as the graph calls for. One stitch before your main color starts again, begin working your single crochet (insert hook, pull up a loop…) before yarning over and completing your single crochet, (you will have two loops still on hook- above left photo) yarn over with main color and complete your single crochet by pulling the main color through the two loops on your hook (above middle photo). You may have to give your stitches a slight tug to keep them uniform as you work your color changes (above right photo).
Working with floats
The color you are not working with will rest on the back of your project until you are ready to use it. These un-worked strands of yarn are called “floats” (see above photos). When bringing your float behind your work to meet the next color change on the graph, make sure it is the same length as the space in between color changes (see length and tension of contrast color floats in above photos) To do this you may have to tug your work slightly to adjust. This will prevent it from pulling and becoming bunched. Keep all yarn tails on the back side of your work and be sure not to catch your floats in your stitches unless it is indicated on the graph to do so.
The contrast Color B on this practice llama graph represents the fuzzy yarn in the pattern. Because of the fuzzy nature of the yarn in the pattern, you will not catch the longer contrast Color B floats in one of your stitches as you normally would. This will prevent the fuzzy yarn from showing through on the right side of your work. You will, however, begin catching your longer main color floats on row 10 of the practice graph (see below photo for what the wrong side of your work will look like. The black arrows show some of the “caught” stitches that were indicated on the graph. Be careful to only catch the floats that are specifically indicated on the graph). As shown with Arrow #1 on practice graph, where to catch these stitches is indicated with a black dot.
Introducing your second and third contrast colors (Colors C and D)
You will introduce additional contrast colors the same way that you introduced your first contrast color (Color B). The practice llama graph only has 3 contrast colors, but in the pattern, you will be working with a total of 4 contrast colors – B, C, D, and E. You will introduce them all the same way. Be sure to keep your main color and contrast Color B underneath your other contrast colors (see white arrow in above photo). This will keep them from getting tangled in the saddle portion of the graph.
finished practice llama
free crochet pillow pattern:
chart for llama design
front side of pillow
At the end of each SC row you will CH 1 and turn. Do not count CH 1 as 1st SC throughout.
With Color A CH 49.
Note: throughout the graph each square counts as one SC (even the squares with symbols and letters). Be sure to check symbols and letters for right side, wrong side and the direction you will be reading the graph.
Rows 1-30: follow pattern on graph for these rows.
Rows 31-37: continue following pattern on graph. Begin catching your longer main color floats on row 31 as indicated on the graph and keep colors C, D, and E above colors A and B at all times (refer to white arrow in the practice llama square backside photo. Pay special attention to the symbols for caught stitches on these rows. Remember to work your color changes normally). (48 SC)
Rows 38-49: continue following pattern on graph. Fasten off Color B.
Rows 50-73: continue following pattern on graph. Fasten off. Weave in ends. (Weaving in the ends for the saddle is optional since they won’t be seen. If weaving them in, be careful not to let them show through on the front side)
top of saddle
insert hook on left side of saddle bring up loop to RS
With approximately 60” of metallic embroidery floss and 4.25mm hook, starting on the top left side of the saddle, (above left photo) bring up a loop from the WS of the pillow to the RS (above right photo).
From left to right, SL ST across the top of the saddle, keeping your yarn tails on the WS of the pillow (above photo) Note: You will be yarning over on the WS and pulling your SL STS through on the RS.
To finish, pull your yarn tail through to the RS (above photo).
At the end of the top right corner of the saddle on the RS of the pillow, with tapestry needle, bring thread to the WS of the pillow (above left photo). Weave yarn tail around a stitch or two on the WS and fasten off.
bridle
Starting on the top of the llama’s nose, (about ¾” from the tip) bring approximately 50” of metallic embroidery floss from the WS to the RS with tapestry needle (above left photo). Lining up your embroidery floss directly below where you brought your first stitch through to the RS, insert tapestry needle at the bottom of the llama’s nose (above right photo) and pull floss through to the WS.
perpendicular to center of previous ST finished bridle
From the WS, perpendicular to the center of the stitch you just made across the llama’s nose, bring floss back through to the RS (above left photo). Direct the remainder of the bridle where you would like it to be placed on the llama’s face and bring tapestry needle from RS to WS of your front panel. Sew around a stitch or two on the WS and fasten off (see above right photo for what the finished bridle will look like).
Optional: Trim excess fur around face and ears of llama until desired look is achieved.
back side of pillow
Do not count CH 1 as 1st SC throughout
With Color A CH 49
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each CH across, CH 1, turn. (48 SC)
Row 2: SC in first SC and in each SC across, CH 1, turn. (48 SC)
Row 3: SC in first SC and in each SC across, do not CH 1, switch to Color B, CH 1, turn. (48 SC)
Row 4: (with Color B) SC in first SC, and in each SC across, do not CH 1, change to Color A, CH 1, turn.
Row 5: (with Color A) SC in first SC and in each SC across, CH 1, turn. (48 SC)
Rows 6-8: REP row 5. (48 SC)
Row 9: SC in first SC and in each SC across, do not CH 1, switch to Color B, CH 1, turn. (48 SC)
Row 10: (with Color B) SC in first SC, and in each SC across, do not CH 1, change to Color A, CH 1, turn.
Rows 11-70: REP rows 5-10 (48 SC)
Rows 71-73: (with Color A) SC in first SC and in each SC across, CH 1, turn. (48 SC)
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Assembling pillow
Place the RS of the front panel against the RS of the back panel. With a long enough strand of Color A to stitch all the way around the pillow, beginning in the left bottom corner, (above left photo) stitch pillow together – work up the left side, across top, and down right side (above right diagram) Leave the bottom open to insert pillow form. Turn pillow right side out. (Remember to leave enough yarn tail to stitch the bottom once pillow form has been inserted.)
Insert pillow form.
With tapestry needle and the leftover yarn tail from sewing together the other three sides, whip stitch the bottom closed. Fasten off and weave in tail.
bobble border
You will be making two cluster stitches and joining them together to form each “bobble”.
With the back side of the pillow facing you, using Color C, and 4.25mm hook, attach yarn at the top right corner of the pillow along the seam.
Cluster stitch:
CH 5
In 3rd CH from hook *begin a DC, (yarn over, insert hook, yarn over pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops on hook…) but do not yarn over and pull through last two loops on hook. REP from * two more times. (You will have 4 loops on hook) Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on hook. (This will give you a cluster stitch)
CH 3
Make second cluster stitch in the top (above left photo) of your first cluster stitch, join with SL ST in the base (above right photo) of first cluster.
CH 2, attach with SLST approximately 1” from beginning base CH of bobble along the seam (above photo).
here’s a quick video that takes you through the steps!
Be careful not to pull the pillow seam too much when making your bobbles. Hold the bobble at the base while you are working with it to prevent this from happening. Continue making your bobble border around all sides of the pillow until last bobble. For last bobble, work the same as the others, SLST approximately 1” from beginning base CH of bobble along the seam. To finish, SLST in the base of first bobble made. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Congrats on your new Llama Llove Pillow! 🙂
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free crochet pillow pattern / Llama Llove Pillow
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